Walt Disney World Photo a Day App

Shooting the Disney Dark Rides – Part 3

This entry is part 3 of 3 in the series Shooting Disney Dark Rides

Some Tips for shooting various rides

Pirates of the Caribbean

    • The most difficult challenge of shooting PotC is actually not the challenge of getting a decent exposure, but getting around the super hot lighting and achieving a correct white balance. Solution – shoot in RAW and then lower the temperature of the image to around 2200 – 2250 and slide the saturation slider to the left to between -25 and -33 in post, depending on when it starts to look good to you. This will lower those reds/oranges and begin to introduce some natural colors of costumes and sets back into the image (with a proper nod, I learned that trick from flickr friend CodyWDWfan, whose flickr site can be seen here)
    • Using a 50mm prime lens works well on PotC. However, a wider angle lens can be fun to use since most of the sets are fairly large. I love using my Canon 24-70 on it.

50mm, f/2.5, 1/50 sec, ISO 6400

70mm, f/2.8, 1/30 sec, ISO 12800

50mm, f/2.0, 1/50 sec, ISO 6400

The Haunted Mansion

  • The biggest challenge here is the extreme darkness – set your camera to shutter priority and the shutter speed equal to the inverse of your focal length (1/50 – 1/40 sec. or slower), and crank up your ISO as high as your camera will allow and still produce usable results. I haven’t found overexposure to be a big problem in any area of the HM except for the singing busts and the bride, so I usually swing for the fence with ISO 12,800 and reduce the ISO two or three stops before shooting those areas.
  • Use manual focus and try to bring the candle lights into focus. I haven’t found depth of field to be a big issue, so I always try to focus on the candle lights which usually results in the rest of the scene being in focus too.
  • Set up your custom functions just in case – I usually set up a custom function “favorite” setting to be around 1/4 sec with ISO at either 3,200 or 6,400 with exposure compensation set to -1. In the event of a ride stop, I roll the mode dial to this custom setting and keep firing. I will also brace the camera on the front safety bar or rest my arm on the safety bar while holding the camera steady. It also helps if your camera has a live view feature for this application.
  • Use the ride vehicle in some way to help steady your camera whenever possible (especially in the event of a ride stop as mentioned above). If you can successfully do this, you will be able to use slightly slower shutter speeds.

50mm, f/1.8, 1/40 sec, ISO 12800

50mm, f/1.2, 1/25 sec, ISO 12800

50mm, f/1.2, 1/20 sec, ISO 12800

50mm, f/1.2, 1/25 sec, ISO 12800

Peter Pan’s Flight – (the most difficult dark ride to shoot, in my opinion)

  • Main challenge here is the motion and speed of the boats. They move pretty quick and erratic when you’re trying to snap pictures. Solution – try to go for a higher shutter speed to stop the movement and as high of an ISO as possible.
  • Use the main tips that I suggested for the Haunted Mansion, you might want to also use exposure compensation as some areas of this ride can be pretty bright. You might also have better luck with auto focus and focus lock on Peter Pan’s Flight.

35mm, f/1.4, 1/40 sec, ISO 6400

50mm, f/2.0, 1/40 sec, ISO 12800, EV-1

35mm, f/2.8, 1/50 sec, ISO 12800

50mm, f/1.8, 1/50 sec, ISO 3200

Given the constantly improving camera technology out there, it’s only a matter of time before most DSLR’s have the built in functionality to capture even the darkest dark ride scenes. At that point, the challenge will have evolved from simply capturing a static scene to coming up with a creative composition on a ride where everyone essentially has the same vantage point.

35mm, f/1.4, 1/40 sec, ISO 6400

For me, shooting the dark rides is a lot like playing golf. I’m a terrible golfer, but the one or two good shots I hit while playing 18 holes are the ones that keep me going back to play more. In the dark rides, the one or two decent shots I walk away with keep me heading back inside the Haunted Mansion with lenses blazing.

Editors Note: I want to thank Todd for all the work he put into this three part series of posts.  I know that a lot of time and effort went into this and I definitely appreciate it. If you enjoyed this series as much as I did (or have any questions), please leave a comment below to let Todd know.

disneyland-photo-a-day-2013

15 Responses to Shooting the Disney Dark Rides – Part 3
  1. Josh Reply

    So you actually found a way to top the first two parts – wow I am impressed. After reading the other two sections and then seeing your examples, notes and exif data in this part I can honestly say that I have learned a ton by reading your articles this week.

    Hope to see more from you on the site.

  2. Burt Reply

    Loved the entire series of articles on this subject, lots of information to take in. I just recently purchased my first dslr and feel lost already but I am enjoying the ride of learning something new. I have already printed out a number of articles from this site thanks to the detailed information you give. Now just need to visit Disney World so I can practice what I have been reading.

    Off topic question, does everyone carry their tripod with them all day or go back to the car/hotel at night to get them? Never needed to think of this before with my old point and shoot.

  3. Todd Hurley Reply

    Josh,
    Thanks very much for your comments. Glad that you picked up a few things.

    Burt,
    Thanks for your comments as well. There are locker rentals at each park and that’s where I usually stash my tripod during the day. This keeps me from having to stray too far to retrieve it. If you have a larger tripod, you might want to check the measurements to make sure it will fit in a locker before you enter the park (more detailed info on the lockers can be found at http://www.wdwinfo.com/tips_for_touring/Lockers.htm). I usually have to take the ball head off of mine for it to fit in a locker, but that’s definitely the way to go.

  4. Allison Lee Reply

    Great work Todd. I only use a P&S but I still enjoyed reading this series of articles (even if most of the settings went right over my head). I tried once to take a shot on Pirates with my little camera and quickly realized I am better off just enjoying the ride :)

    I only wish they would enforce the No Flash Photography rule more.

    • Todd Hurley Reply

      Thanks, Allison. Depending on your p&s, there are probably some things you could try in order to get better pictures on the dark rides. Primarily, see if your camera has some kind of “night shot” setting. If so, you can try to brace your camera on or against something when you take the picture. The reason for this is that a “night shot” mode typically uses a slower shutter speed, which allows in more light to expose the image. Therefore, you’ll want to rest the camera on something steady to avoid camera shake while the shutter is open (even if it’s only open for 1/4 of a second). Don’t know if that will work for you, but it’s worth a shot. Good luck!

  5. Curtis Reply

    Todd, This has been a great series of posts! Some great pointers that I hoping to be able to put to good use in the future. I’ve just started to try and get some good shots on the dark rides and these tips will surly come in handy. Thanks!

  6. Tom Bricker Reply

    Great series–learned some new things!!!

  7. Larry White Reply

    Todd, This is an incredible series. I wish this was available before I went to Disneyland Park in Paris. I’m thinking I could have some back with some sweet shots! I learned a ton! Thanks!!!!

  8. Ryan Pastorino Reply

    Great post, thank you. I have learned some new things. Now it’s time to put them to practice!

  9. Melanie Reply

    Excellent 3 parter – wish I’d seen it sooner as I might have made sure to have a faster lens with me.

    Good to know though that my biggest failure (Peter Pan) is the trickiest for most everyone. I don’t feel as bad coming away with nothing – and definitely think I’ll be more prepared next time. Now to just see about upgrading from my 30D (max ISO is 3200). ;)

  10. Hugo Reply

    Hey
    Great tutorial. About leave camera in manual focus, do you leave the same focus fix for the entire set or you actually manual focusing every shot ?

  11. Rachael Reply

    Very useful information thank you. As time in the parks is limited for us we are usually only able to have one go on each ride. Hopefully this holiday I will be able to get some decent shots using these tips. Now just to convince husband I need “one last thing” (a fast lens) before our trip.

  12. Samantha Reply

    This was a great read. I’ve been reading a lot on taking pictures at Disney and this one is by far one of the best. I purchased a Monopod for my trip this year. I’m really excited about using it to get those great shots.
    Thanks Todd. Great Pictures!

  13. DisneyDadof5 Reply

    Thanks a bunch Todd for the information. Like you, I always hope for that great shot at the parks!

  14. Tonya Holcomb Reply

    These articles were amazing! I realize now I was limited by technology! I guess I will have to buy a camera w higher ISO capability.

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